At Hybrid Racing, our stance aligns strongly with Honda's original engineering design principles. In this design, the fuel pump is grounded to the hanger, establishing a dual grounding system within the fuel tank. This arrangement significantly reduces the chance of sparking, safeguarding both the pump and your entire vehicle from potential electrical faults. Moreover, this design ensures the power wires are external while grounding is internally preserved. This setup balances fuel pump performance, electrical hazard reduction, and overall vehicle safety. Honda's design is backed by extensive research and development, particularly considering the gas tank's sensitivity. Therefore, we generally advise adhering to Honda's proven setup. However, we recognize that alternate wiring methods might be possible, and some may have had success with different approaches. You could consider reaching out to the manufacturer of your hanger for further advice; they may provide alternative recommendations based on their...
You will not be able to adjust any shifter cables as the cables are calibrated for the transmission/application. If you are using a K20A2 transmission then you will want to use the Hybrid Racing RSX Shifter Cables or Short K Swap Cables, HYB-SCA-01-05 and HYB-SCA-01-07 respectively.
Please refer to the following install guide for help with this specific conversion wiring harness. HYB-CWH-01-17 - https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2218/5...-CWH-01-17_-_96-98_Civic_EK_HR_Conversion_Harness_Instal...
There is no need to lubricate the shifter in any way. There are a number of different reasons why you could be having trouble getting into gear. Please send our support team an email for further help with this. support@hybrid-racing.com
We now have Shifter Cables available for the Honda K24 Transmission! https://www.hybrid-racing.com/products/hybrid-racing-heavy-duty-shifter-cables-04-08-tsx
It depends on many factors, including the life of your clutch. If you are coming from all stock parts to installing the CMC kit, it is possible that it will move the engagement point. I suggest adjusting the rod to move the pedal down some, just be sure the slave cylinder is disengaging fully so the clutch does not slip.
Wiring the Hondata Boost Control Solenoid The solenoid has two wires, with no polarity (it does not matter which wire is used for each connection): (1) One wire should be connected to the ECU pin B21 (which normally runs the purge control solenoid on the throttle body). (2) One wire should be connected to +12V switched power via a 10A fuse. Notes: (1) Do not use a relay between the ECU and solenoid. (2) High current solenoids could damage the ECU.
This kit does not work with the R18. The slave cylinder is not the same as the K-Series so the line and fitting do not work. This is made for the Si model only using the K20Z3 engine and transmission.
I suggest trying to bleed the system again. If you are not seeing proper slave/fork movement, you may still have air in the system. If your slave cylinder is older or has a lot of miles on it, consider replacing that. Otherwise, bleeding the system again may help.
You must use the original rod and clevis. You must change these parts so it actuates the system correctly as you press the pedal. The EM1’s rod and clevis geometry are not ideal, so you have to change them.
Your pedal will not have the correct amount of travel, preventing you from being able to fully engage/disengage the clutch. This could cause the clutch to slip and ultimately fail. You should change the rod and clevis, as well as adjust the pedal and confirm that your slave cylinder is actuating the fork the proper amount.
The retaining clip helps keep the bushing from moving without it you will have some slop in the cable. If you need a replacement feel free to reach out to us and we can get you one shipped out.
This kit does not work with the R18. The slave cylinder is not the same as the K-Series so the line and fitting do not work. This is made for the Si model only using the K20Z3 engine and transmission.
It does NOT work on the R18. This is for the Honda Civic Si equipped with the K20Z3 engine and 6spd MT.
The clutch rod that attaches to the pedal can be threaded in and out to adjust the overall pedal engagement.
No, you have to change out the rod.
I suggest trying to bleed the system again. If you are not seeing proper slave/fork movement, you may still have air in the system. If your slave cylinder is older or has a lot of miles on it, consider replacing that. Otherwise, bleeding the system again may help.
The automatic shift boot bezel does not have a shift boot. The automatic bezel provides a clean OEM solution to show off the shifter.
Yes, the item is discontinued.
You must use the original rod and clevis. You must change these parts so it actuates the system correctly as you press the pedal. The EM1’s rod and clevis geometry are not ideal, so you have to change them.
Your pedal will not have the correct amount of travel, preventing you from being able to fully engage/disengage the clutch. This could cause the clutch to slip and ultimately fail. You should change the rod and clevis, as well as adjust the pedal and confirm that your slave cylinder is actuating the fork the proper amount.
The retaining clip helps keep the bushing from moving without it you will have some slop in the cable. If you need a replacement feel free to reach out to us and we can get you one shipped out.
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