Hybrid Racing Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade (06-11 Civic Si)

Written By: Hybrid Racing (and one other contributor)
  • Comments: 28
  • Favorites: 1
  • Completions: 4

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

16

Time Required

01:00:00

Sections

1

Flags

0

  1. Begin by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Next remove the positive terminal, then loosen the battery bracket. Next remove the positive terminal, then loosen the battery bracket.

    • Begin by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery.

    • Next remove the positive terminal, then loosen the battery bracket.

    Edit

  2. Once the battery bracket is loose, rotate the studs and pull the assembly out. Lift up on the battery cover and remove it. Remove the battery from the car.

    • Once the battery bracket is loose, rotate the studs and pull the assembly out.

    • Lift up on the battery cover and remove it.

    • Remove the battery from the car.

    Edit

  3. Remove the battery tray cover to expose the battery tray. Remove the battery tray cover to expose the battery tray.

    • Remove the battery tray cover to expose the battery tray.

    Edit

  4. Use a pair of clamping pliers to pinch the reservoir fluid line that runs to the clutch master cylinder.

    • Use a pair of clamping pliers to pinch the reservoir fluid line that runs to the clutch master cylinder.

    • Doing this will prevent an unwanted leak of the fluid. You can drain the used fluid into a brake fluid safe container for disposal.

    Edit

  5. Using a metric line wrench, remove the factory clutch line from the clutch slave cylinder. You may need to hold the CSC fitting with another wrench.

    • Using a metric line wrench, remove the factory clutch line from the clutch slave cylinder.

    • You may need to hold the CSC fitting with another wrench.

    Edit

  6. Remove the lower dash panel to allow for easier access to the pedal assembly. Locate and remove the clutch master cylinder pin. Loosen the clutch interlock switch sensor. You will need this loose for clutch adjustment at the end of the install.

    • Remove the lower dash panel to allow for easier access to the pedal assembly.

    • Locate and remove the clutch master cylinder pin.

    • Loosen the clutch interlock switch sensor. You will need this loose for clutch adjustment at the end of the install.

    Edit

  7. Using a 12mm socket, remove the two mounting nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place. Using a 12mm socket, remove the two mounting nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place.

    • Using a 12mm socket, remove the two mounting nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place.

    Edit

  8. Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now. Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now. Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now.

    • Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now.

    Edit

  9. Un-clip the factory wiring harness from its mounting bracket. Remove the reservoir fluid line from the top of the clutch master cylinder, then remove the clutch master cylinder assembly & clutch line from the car. Remove the reservoir fluid line from the top of the clutch master cylinder, then remove the clutch master cylinder assembly & clutch line from the car.

    • Un-clip the factory wiring harness from its mounting bracket.

    • Remove the reservoir fluid line from the top of the clutch master cylinder, then remove the clutch master cylinder assembly & clutch line from the car.

    Edit

  10. Remove the factory CMC gasket. Using a pair of C-Clip pliers, squeeze the C-clip and remove the OEM CMC rod & fork. Using a pair of C-Clip pliers, squeeze the C-clip and remove the OEM CMC rod & fork.

    • Remove the factory CMC gasket.

    • Using a pair of C-Clip pliers, squeeze the C-clip and remove the OEM CMC rod & fork.

    Edit

  11. Pull the dust cover back on the EM1 CMC to expose the C-clip. Using the C-clip pliers, remove the rod and for from the EM1 CMC. Using the C-clip pliers, remove the rod and for from the EM1 CMC.

    • Pull the dust cover back on the EM1 CMC to expose the C-clip.

    • Using the C-clip pliers, remove the rod and for from the EM1 CMC.

    Edit

  12. Compare the CMC's & rod/fork assemblies. Be sure to grease the rod before inserting it into the EM1 CMC. You can use some of the grease that is on the CMC, or supply your own. Be sure to grease the rod before inserting it into the EM1 CMC. You can use some of the grease that is on the CMC, or supply your own.

    • Compare the CMC's & rod/fork assemblies.

    • Be sure to grease the rod before inserting it into the EM1 CMC. You can use some of the grease that is on the CMC, or supply your own.

    Edit

    You must use the original rod and clevis. You must change these parts so it actuates the system correctly as you press the pedal. The EM1’s rod and clevis geometry are not ideal, so you have to change them.

    Hybrid Racing - Reply

    Other than the verify the length what is the purpose of pulling the rod in the fork do you use the supplied rod and fork or do you use the original rod and fork when doing the swap?

    Paul - Reply

  13. Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional. Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional. Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional.

    • Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional.

    Edit

    Do you still need to switch the rods and fork when you ordered through hybrid?

    Landon - Reply

  14. Once the EM1 CMC has the correct rod/fork, fill it with fluid. We recommend DOT 4 brake fluid. Slowly push the rod in and watch for air bubbles to come out of the fitting. The goal of this is to remove as much air from the CMC as possible. This will aid in the bleeding process. Cap the fluid outlet on the EM1 CMC.

    • Once the EM1 CMC has the correct rod/fork, fill it with fluid. We recommend DOT 4 brake fluid.

    • Slowly push the rod in and watch for air bubbles to come out of the fitting. The goal of this is to remove as much air from the CMC as possible. This will aid in the bleeding process.

    • Cap the fluid outlet on the EM1 CMC.

    Edit

  15. Be sure to install the copper sealing washers on both sides of the banjo fitting. Install the clutch line with the banjo fitting pointing away from the CMC mounting flange. Tighten the banjo fitting. (8-10 ft•lbs)

    • Be sure to install the copper sealing washers on both sides of the banjo fitting.

    • Install the clutch line with the banjo fitting pointing away from the CMC mounting flange.

    • Tighten the banjo fitting. (8-10 ft•lbs)

    • Do not over tighten the banjo, you could strip or break the fitting.

    Edit

  16. Re-install the CMC into the chassis. Bleed the system and adjust the CMC rod accordingly for proper clutch engagement. Tighten the clutch interlock switch sensor once the adjustment has been made. Optional - The new clutch line will be able to mount in the factory hard line clips.

    • Re-install the CMC into the chassis.

    • Bleed the system and adjust the CMC rod accordingly for proper clutch engagement. Tighten the clutch interlock switch sensor once the adjustment has been made.

    • Optional - The new clutch line will be able to mount in the factory hard line clips.

    Edit

    Followed all these steps, but I cannot get pressure in the clutch pedal, bled the system for a few hours, I am quite certain there is no air in the system, but the clutch pedal still sinks to the floor. Any ideas, if I did something wrong? Could one of the cylinders be faulty?

    Thanks,

    Jason

    Jason Wong - Reply

    Please send an email to support@hybrid-racing.com so we can work with you to get the problem solved.

    Hybrid Racing -

    I followed the instructions to install did everything it says to do and when I go to adjust the CMC rod for proper engagement the Rod will not spin clock wise or counter clock wise it’s just stuck. What did I do wrong?

    Brandon - Reply

    My advice is take the pin out that links the CMC rod to the clutch pedal then make your adjustments to the rod. Put your head way down in there and look at the hole on the clevis and turn the rod until it lines up. Then put the pin back in. That should be a good starting point for the rest of the adjustment. What I mean by this is if you line those holes up it should give you that free play.

    I had to take mine off and run that clevis all the way down the threads and back up because the end of the threads was chewed up from the back of the clutch pedal and it wouldn't thread all the way through.

    Erik -

Finish Line

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Author

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Hybrid Racing

Member since: 04/29/2014

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67 Guides authored

21 Comments

Are there any pictures of how the clutch line attaches to the slave cylinder?

Josh - Reply

Send us an email and we can get some to you. Support@hybrid-racing.com

Hybrid Racing -

When I bought the car it came clutch master cylinder from autozone Can i still use the rod from that part and switch with hybrids racing one or it has to be Honda part

Ivananalco12 - Reply

Yes as long as its OEM or like OEM should work fine.

Hybrid Racing -

Will this work for a 2007 Honda civic lx? I’m pretty certain it will I just want to make sure if anyone else did this on a non si 8th gen.

AndrewS - Reply

It does NOT work on the R18. This is for the Honda Civic Si equipped with the K20Z3 engine and 6spd MT.

Hybrid Racing -

Can i install this cmc without changing rod, just use cmc spacer like s2000 spacer?

Егор - Reply

No, you have to change out the rod.

Hybrid Racing -

After installing this hybrid CMC and slave kit with a ACT street light flywheel and a pro shift stage 2 clutch with pressure plate. I cannot get enough rod travel to engage my clutch. Is this a common problem?

I followed the instructions step by step. I I swapped the rod and clevis from the original into the new CMC. I installed the braided line with the banjo fittings exactly like it's pictured 8 to 10 ft lb. However this install guide says not one word about the slave. It says nothing about any modifications that might be necessary. It doesn't even tell you how to put it on. Luckily it's very easy to do but this guide is incomplete.

Any help from you on this problem of not enough fork travel to engage my clutch would be so helpful because I don't want to tear this car apart again if I don't have to.

Erik - Reply

I suggest trying to bleed the system again. If you are not seeing proper slave/fork movement, you may still have air in the system. If your slave cylinder is older or has a lot of miles on it, consider replacing that. Otherwise, bleeding the system again may help.

Hybrid Racing -

How do I adjust my clutch petal for my 2007 Acura TSX?

Isaac maxwell - Reply

The clutch rod that attaches to the pedal can be threaded in and out to adjust the overall pedal engagement.

Hybrid Racing -

In a ep3 si 2002 is neccessary swap the em1 cmc rod with oem???

oldemar - Reply

Yes, it is necessary to change the rod and clevis in any car that is not a 92-00 Honda Civic or 94-01 Integra.

Hybrid Racing -

So I Installed your CMC on my 07 Civic Si and i used everything from the oem one like the Rod, fork washer that connects into the rod and even the clip that holds everything in place and i also installed the new line provided and your shifter bushings but for some reason no matter if i adjust the rod shorter or longer the Clutch Pedal engages very high and idky because i just installed a brand new Competition Clutch stage 3 with flywheel that i barley just gave it about 1mile from driving around the block twice.

Eric Gonzalez - Reply

What happens if I don't swap the em1 cmc rod with oem???

Dom - Reply

Your pedal will not have the correct amount of travel, preventing you from being able to fully engage/disengage the clutch. This could cause the clutch to slip and ultimately fail. You should change the rod and clevis, as well as adjust the pedal and confirm that your slave cylinder is actuating the fork the proper amount.

Hybrid Racing -

Will this work the same for an 06 civic EX? Also, do I have to use the banjo fitting and braided line? Or will the OEM hard line fit in the em1 CMC?

Steve - Reply

This kit does not work with the R18. The slave cylinder is not the same as the K-Series so the line and fitting do not work. This is made for the Si model only using the K20Z3 engine and transmission.

Hybrid Racing -

Aug/20/2019 2008 Honda Civic si.

when changing cmc do you have to switch the oem rod into the new em1 cmc ? I didn’t in mine and I’m still trying to adjust it right.

Mr.Walker - Reply

Yes, the OE rod is shorter than the EM1 rod that comes with the CMC.

Ryan McGinnis -

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