06-11 Civic Si / EM1 Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade

Written By: Hybrid Racing (and one other contributor)
  • Comments: 17
  • Favorites: 1
  • Completions: 4

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

16

Time Required

01:00:00

Sections

1

Flags

0

  1. Begin by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery. Next remove the positive terminal, then loosen the battery bracket. Next remove the positive terminal, then loosen the battery bracket.

    • Begin by disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery.

    • Next remove the positive terminal, then loosen the battery bracket.

    Edit

  2. Once the battery bracket is loose, rotate the studs and pull the assembly out. Lift up on the battery cover and remove it. Remove the battery from the car.

    • Once the battery bracket is loose, rotate the studs and pull the assembly out.

    • Lift up on the battery cover and remove it.

    • Remove the battery from the car.

    Edit

  3. Remove the battery tray cover to expose the battery tray. Remove the battery tray cover to expose the battery tray.

    • Remove the battery tray cover to expose the battery tray.

    Edit

  4. Use a pair of clamping pliers to pinch the reservoir fluid line that runs to the clutch master cylinder.

    • Use a pair of clamping pliers to pinch the reservoir fluid line that runs to the clutch master cylinder.

    • Doing this will prevent an unwanted leak of the fluid. You can drain the used fluid into a brake fluid safe container for disposal.

    Edit

  5. Using a metric line wrench, remove the factory clutch line from the clutch slave cylinder. You may need to hold the CSC fitting with another wrench.

    • Using a metric line wrench, remove the factory clutch line from the clutch slave cylinder.

    • You may need to hold the CSC fitting with another wrench.

    Edit

  6. Remove the lower dash panel to allow for easier access to the pedal assembly. Locate and remove the clutch master cylinder pin. Loosen the clutch interlock switch sensor. You will need this loose for clutch adjustment at the end of the install.

    • Remove the lower dash panel to allow for easier access to the pedal assembly.

    • Locate and remove the clutch master cylinder pin.

    • Loosen the clutch interlock switch sensor. You will need this loose for clutch adjustment at the end of the install.

    Edit

  7. Using a 12mm socket, remove the two mounting nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place. Using a 12mm socket, remove the two mounting nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place.

    • Using a 12mm socket, remove the two mounting nuts that hold the clutch master cylinder in place.

    Edit

  8. Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now. Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now. Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now.

    • Locate the three mounting locations for the factory clutch line. Un-clip them all now.

    Edit

  9. Un-clip the factory wiring harness from its mounting bracket. Remove the reservoir fluid line from the top of the clutch master cylinder, then remove the clutch master cylinder assembly & clutch line from the car. Remove the reservoir fluid line from the top of the clutch master cylinder, then remove the clutch master cylinder assembly & clutch line from the car.

    • Un-clip the factory wiring harness from its mounting bracket.

    • Remove the reservoir fluid line from the top of the clutch master cylinder, then remove the clutch master cylinder assembly & clutch line from the car.

    Edit

  10. Remove the factory CMC gasket. Using a pair of C-Clip pliers, squeeze the C-clip and remove the OEM CMC rod & fork. Using a pair of C-Clip pliers, squeeze the C-clip and remove the OEM CMC rod & fork.

    • Remove the factory CMC gasket.

    • Using a pair of C-Clip pliers, squeeze the C-clip and remove the OEM CMC rod & fork.

    Edit

  11. Pull the dust cover back on the EM1 CMC to expose the C-clip. Using the C-clip pliers, remove the rod and for from the EM1 CMC. Using the C-clip pliers, remove the rod and for from the EM1 CMC.

    • Pull the dust cover back on the EM1 CMC to expose the C-clip.

    • Using the C-clip pliers, remove the rod and for from the EM1 CMC.

    Edit

  12. Compare the CMC's & rod/fork assemblies. Be sure to grease the rod before inserting it into the EM1 CMC. You can use some of the grease that is on the CMC, or supply your own. Be sure to grease the rod before inserting it into the EM1 CMC. You can use some of the grease that is on the CMC, or supply your own.

    • Compare the CMC's & rod/fork assemblies.

    • Be sure to grease the rod before inserting it into the EM1 CMC. You can use some of the grease that is on the CMC, or supply your own.

    Edit

  13. Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional. Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional. Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional.

    • Using the C-clip pliers, insert the OEM rod & fork into the EM1 CMC. The EM1 dust boot is optional.

    Edit

  14. Once the EM1 CMC has the correct rod/fork, fill it with fluid. We recommend DOT 4 brake fluid. Slowly push the rod in and watch for air bubbles to come out of the fitting. The goal of this is to remove as much air from the CMC as possible. This will aid in the bleeding process. Cap the fluid outlet on the EM1 CMC.

    • Once the EM1 CMC has the correct rod/fork, fill it with fluid. We recommend DOT 4 brake fluid.

    • Slowly push the rod in and watch for air bubbles to come out of the fitting. The goal of this is to remove as much air from the CMC as possible. This will aid in the bleeding process.

    • Cap the fluid outlet on the EM1 CMC.

    Edit

  15. Be sure to install the copper sealing washers on both sides of the banjo fitting. Install the clutch line with the banjo fitting pointing away from the CMC mounting flange. Tighten the banjo fitting. (8-10 ft•lbs)

    • Be sure to install the copper sealing washers on both sides of the banjo fitting.

    • Install the clutch line with the banjo fitting pointing away from the CMC mounting flange.

    • Tighten the banjo fitting. (8-10 ft•lbs)

    • Do not over tighten the banjo, you could strip or break the fitting.

    Edit

  16. Re-install the CMC into the chassis. Bleed the system and adjust the CMC rod accordingly for proper clutch engagement. Tighten the clutch interlock switch sensor once the adjustment has been made. Optional - The new clutch line will be able to mount in the factory hard line clips.

    • Re-install the CMC into the chassis.

    • Bleed the system and adjust the CMC rod accordingly for proper clutch engagement. Tighten the clutch interlock switch sensor once the adjustment has been made.

    • Optional - The new clutch line will be able to mount in the factory hard line clips.

    Edit
Finish Line

4 other people completed this guide.

Author

with 1 other contributor

Hybrid Racing

Member since: 04/29/2014

9,071 Reputation

50 Guides authored

12 Comments

Can i install this cmc without changing rod, just use cmc spacer like s2000 spacer?

Егор - Reply

After installing this hybrid CMC and slave kit with a ACT street light flywheel and a pro shift stage 2 clutch with pressure plate. I cannot get enough rod travel to engage my clutch. Is this a common problem?

I followed the instructions step by step. I I swapped the rod and clevis from the original into the new CMC. I installed the braided line with the banjo fittings exactly like it's pictured 8 to 10 ft lb. However this install guide says not one word about the slave. It says nothing about any modifications that might be necessary. It doesn't even tell you how to put it on. Luckily it's very easy to do but this guide is incomplete.

Any help from you on this problem of not enough fork travel to engage my clutch would be so helpful because I don't want to tear this car apart again if I don't have to.

Erik - Reply

I suggest trying to bleed the system again. If you are not seeing proper slave/fork movement, you may still have air in the system. If your slave cylinder is older or has a lot of miles on it, consider replacing that. Otherwise, bleeding the system again may help.

Hybrid Racing -

How do I adjust my clutch petal for my 2007 Acura TSX?

Isaac maxwell - Reply

In a ep3 si 2002 is neccessary swap the em1 cmc rod with oem???

oldemar - Reply

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